Browsing Tag

Berlin

Protect us from Bloody Men

· The Armed Man/ Jewish Prayer from the Psalms ·

Some of the first movements of Jenkins’ The Armed Man are a Muslim call to prayer, the Christian Kyrie Eleison and a Jewish prayer from the psalms. (Music here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NvJuHqaJUh8). Rather than wondering about the abundance of religious themes – after all the piece is modeled after a catholic mass – I was pleased by the inclusivity of different faith traditions. Historically, however, the plea for protection went unheeded when you consider the Jewish experience across centuries. I could not think of a better visual and intellectual representation of that theme than the Berlin Holocaust memorial https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Memorial_to_the_Murdered_Jews_of_Europe (overlaid by a Mogen David I found in a Jewish section of a French cemetery.)

When you approach the memorial you see a large field of concrete slabs or stelae, which are reminiscent of sarcophagi, but also of the symmetry, simplicity and oppressiveness of fascist architecture. The true nature of the memorial reveals itself slowly.  Only when you enter the grid do you realize that the ground is sloping and soon you are lost between tall slabs, barely seeing a glimpse of the sky, as if the earth is about to swallow you. It must represent the feeling that so many assimilated German Jews had when the bottom fell out below them, no amount of patriotism, nationalism, service to the Fatherland in WW I a protection against the bloody men out for your annihilation. And on top, while you are sinking ever deeper, life goes on and children giggle over their ice cream cones and use the slabs as climbing structures, a whole world blind to (or ignoring of) your fate.

There is a small but terrific museum underground this memorial, well worth a visit.  And there are always reminders that some will never forget, and make sure that they do whatever they can to provide slivers of justice to history. Here is one such story from a recent issue of the Forward: http://forward.com/culture/books/338532/my-lower-east-side-neighbor-caught-adolf-eichmann/

 

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Museum Medley

· Deutsches Historisches Museum ·

IMG_1836 copyIn honor of Zeitgeist Northwest’s upcoming German Culture Week (for details see http://www.zeitgeistnorthwest.org) I will introduce a number of German museums or other cultural icons this week. The Deutsches Historisches Museum in Berlin Mitte gets first dip.  Of the more than 170 (yes, you read that right) museums in the German capital it has some of the most interesting exhibits. The permanent exhibit is located in the old part, the Zeughaus. The museum’s special exhibits can be seen in the Exhibition Hall designed by the Chinese American architect I.M. Pei, a gorgeous piece of architecture. The traveling exhibits are devoted to formative historical events, epochs and social developments.

 

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If you are lucky enough to travel to Berlin right now you can visit the current show https://www.dhm.de/en/ausstellungen/sticky-messages.html  (link is in English.) The exhibit displays anti-semitic and racist stickers from 1880 to the present making an effort to confront an ugly past as well as present-day dismal political agitation. The German title for this show is ingenious: Angezettelt   – the word consist of the preposition “an” (on) and the noun “Zettel” (note or small piece of paper) denoting the little stickers that you find affixed to public surfaces. The combined word, though, anzetteln, means instigation, or secret plotting or hatching of plans – a fitting description of the purpose of these ancestors of graffiti. It all gets, of course, lost in translation – sticky messages is the best any one could come up with.  More evidence, if still needed, for how unbelievably difficult good translation is.