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Spellbound

“Trying to understand superstition rationally is like trying to pick up something made of wood by using a magnet.”

This sentence by Philip Pullman, author of the epic trilogy His Dark Materials (The Golden Compass, The Subtle Knife, The Amber Spyglass) which held sway in our household for years of childhood, caught my eye. In fact it made me read the rest of his review of a new exhibit, Spellbound, currently up at the Ashmolean Museum, Oxford, until January 6. https://ashmolean.org

Pullman pulls off (sorry, couldn’t resist) once again his effortless way of embedding serious and difficult ideas in flowing and lyrical writing that winds its way into your brain as if it was a song. All the more impressive given that he writes a review here and not a science fiction novel. Then again, the topics of the exhibit which he reviews, magic, witchcraft, superstition, fall squarely into his novelistic domain: to delineate the realms of science and rationality against those other kingdoms seated deep in our imagination.

Where his novels stress the dangers of the latter undermining the former, the review extends an invitation to do the opposite. He points to the fact that “witchcraft and magic existed in a shared mental framework of hidden influences and meanings, of significances and correspondences, whether angelic, diabolic, or natural. Everything in the exhibition testifies to a near-universal belief in the existence of an invisible, imaginary world that could affect human life and be affected in turn by those who knew how to do it.”

Now, just the fact that belief in a shadow world and imaginary powers is universal does not make them a reality. Pullman would probably agree. But he is specifically after something else: he refers to Keat’s concept of Negative Capabilitythat is when a man is capable of being in uncertainties, Mysteries, doubts, without any irritable reaching after fact & reason” – is where the imagination is at home, and so are ghosts and dreams and gods and devils and witches. There, possibilities are unlimited, and nothing is forbidden. Pullman speculates that it is this very state that is at the bottom of much scientific discovery, and certainly the source for the creation of every piece of art in existence.

The review ends with an appeal to heading both: imagination and reason.

https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.theguardian.com/books/2018/sep/01/the-limits-of-reason-philip-pullman-on-why-we-believe-in-magic&sa=U&ved=0ahUKEwjmyaHjw5zdAhWhCTQIHd90DZQQFggFMAA&client=internal-uds-cse&cx=007466294097402385199:m2ealvuxh1i&usg=AOvVaw1jA8jz5PRqTfa_I_wzol_G

Let’s use reason to approach the issue of witch hunts – the real thing, the one that staged over 10.000 trials (and subsequent executions) in continental Europe, the British Isles and North American colonies. Let’s use science to understand the explosion of these persecutions at a time when churches competed for conversions:

https://qz.com/1183992/why-europe-was-overrun-by-witch-hunts-in-early-modern-history/

Two economists have dug beyond the usual explanations of bad weather, hunger crises and need for scapegoating and come up with a theory that comes down to market competition – between churches. “Similar to how contemporary Republican and Democrat candidates focus campaign activity in political battlegrounds during elections to attract the loyalty of undecided voters, historical Catholic and Protestant officials focused witch-trial activity in confessional battlegrounds during the Reformation and Counter-Reformation to attract the loyalty of undecided Christians,” write the study’s authors, Peter T. Leeson, an economist at George Mason University, and Jacob W. Russ, an economist at Bloom Intelligence, a big-data analysis firm. When it comes to winning people to your side, after all, there’s no better method than stoking fears about an outside threat—and then assuring them that you, and you alone, offer the best protection.”

Let that sink in.

Photographs today of architectural details that gave me the irrational sense of being watched…. and why should I be immune to superstition?

 

Grafitti – the Old Fashioned Version

Painting on public surfaces is nothing new – I don’t have a clue to when we can date back the earliest frescos, but they have been around for a long time. I was reminded of that during my exploration of churches these last weeks.  I had the chance to see some fragmentary early frescos, in addition to the later baroque splendor of the various naves I visited.

In Trieste the main spot is the Cattedrale di San Giusto Martire which has frescos, both painted and as mosaics.  The roman, then gothic structure was consecrated in 1385. It is the seat of the Bishop of Trieste. In 1899 Pope Leo XIII granted it the status of a basilica minor.

An added attraction for some months of the year is a sculpture of he martyr St. Justus submerged in sea water. the long story can be found here:

https://bestoftrieste.com/2016/10/29/survival-guide-san-giusto-the-patron-saint-of-trieste/

The short version: Romans drown Christian; gets miraculously washed ashore and buried. Trieste diving community centuries later places a statue with church and military pomp and circumstances into the sea; after annual retrieval and cleaning, it gets displayed at the cathedral until its St. day on November 3. There’s so much to do other than helping the poor……

Some modern sculpture melts successfully into the rest of the architectural riches.

A much smaller one was the Basilica of St. Silvestro, reformed evangelical church of the Swiss and Valdese that dates back to the 12.th century. The frescos here spoke to me in the quietude of the space.

In Ljubljana the only church I visited was the cathedral, Church of St. Nicholas. https://www.visitljubljana.com/en/visitors/things-to-do/sightseeing/the-cathedral-church-of-st-nicholas/

The church was founded in 1262; various instantiations emerged throughout the centuries. The dome fresco was painted in 1844 (originally they had a fake painted dome until they erected the real thing.) Overall, Baroque splendor, what can I say, down to the lighting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Again with some modern and actually gripping simplicity in the mix – here with stations of the cross.

These were sacred spaces, enjoyed by, admittedly, hordes of humanities, eager to cross off a must-see item on their European tour. So much so that churches have begun to charge for entry. Which irritated me to no end. It just seems wrong.

Both in Alkmaar, Holland,

 

and at St. Stephen’s Cathedral in Vienna you can set foot into the church, getting some glimpses of the over all structure.

 

 

You can light your votive candles.

But soon you encounter the barrier to the cashier if you want to go on to see details or special projects.

I guess a reflection of the church in our modern world of worldwide travel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One of the must see itms on the list when visiting old European cities is churches – don’t rely on my assessment, just look at the hordes of people

Visibility

In the 1950s and 60s you still had to stop at a checkpoint and show your passport when crossing the border into Holland. But you would have known where one country ends and the next one starts regardless: the houses became skinny and all you had to do was look at the windows. Where a voluminous (and ugly) curtain culture reigned supreme in Germany, the Dutch houses had none. You could (and still can, in many places these days, although curtains are now more frequent,) look straight into the rooms of any given dwelling, often through the apartments themselves into the back gardens.

This is not only my personal observation. Philosophers and researchers have looked into this peculiar part of Dutch culture that gives anyone insight into what you are doing in your living room particularly at dusk when the lights are on inside. There are three main explanations. Everyone agrees it is rooted in the Calvinist history of the country. It showed G-d and your fellow burghers that you had nothing to hide, your behavior impeccable in private as much as in the public sphere.

There is also the theory that the visibility helps social bonding, important in a place so small, with so many people living on top of each other. (16.5 million on 21.094 square miles.) Feeling socially connected as well as exerting a mild form of social control is at the root of a country that has a strong social contract between the well-to-do and the less so, ever since rebuilding from the catastrophic destruction wrought by World War II and the German invasion.

And lastly, the Dutch are curious (Probably one of the traits that made them into such successful sea faring explorers. We’ll pass on the issue of colonialism for today.). They are also heavily into design and happy to show it off to anyone who comes by. So goes the analysis.

Modern Dutch architecture continues that trend of transparency and displayclever design that integrates forms of the old with new ideas. They also, for the most part, acknowledge the scarcity of space and build narrow. Now even printed in 3D!

https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2018/jun/06/netherlands-to-build-worlds-first-habitable-3d-printed-houses?utm_term=Autofeed&CMP=twt_b-gdnnews#Echobox=1528271947

Sliding doors and built-in furniture save space inside skinny house by Ana Rocha Architecture

If I ever won the lottery, this would be my first purchase………

Charred timber and glass villa by VVKH Architecten is embedded in a sand dune

 

 

Photographs from Alkmaar and Amsterdam. Given the limited space, the streets and alleys are accordingly narrow. Here is the Dutch version of our 20 is plenty:

This village wasn’t build for fast traffic.

The song below, 15 million people, was originally an advertisement jingle for the Dutch Postbank. It became a hit a decade or so again on the charts, describing what is seen as typically Dutch. The curtain-less windows being among the listed attributes….  Enjoy.

Beyond Steeples

Churches will be on display this week.  Whatever complex – and complicated – relationship I have with organized religion of any kind, I often stand in awe at what was built in the name of it, from cathedrals to mosques to synagogues. For some moments I can forget the issues of money, power, oppression, proselytizing, misogyny and the like, and just marvel at the mountains of stones moved by faith.

This is particularly true for medieval cathedrals where those who started the project did not live to see its completion, with sometimes three generations of stone masons from a family consecutively working on the same building. The grandeur of these churches, their overwhelming size but also their interior beauty surely helped to keep the locals in check, remind them of power relations; but it was also, I strongly believe, testament to deeply felt devotion to a God who deserved beauty and sacrifice beyond a sermon on the mount, in the minds of his followers.

It is also true that the church was a patron to the arts for centuries, certainly across the middle ages. During that era religion was integrated into every day life. Its rites, feasts and fasts, in line with the seasonal rhythms, provided the structure of the Catholic existence. Religion flourished through this integration, and ecclesiastical patronage tried to be inspirational to keep it that way  – as well as keep an eye on the artistic output being in line with what was to be taught. These days, of course, religion and life are separate for most people, and the dearth of inspirational art is one of the consequences.

 

There is an exception, though. Music is interwoven with our daily life, and it is astonishing to see how many widely distributed forms of music are inspired by religion and communicating that inspiration. For this week, then, I have picked a number of diverse contemporary, popular musicians for us to listen to, who are deeply grounded in one or another faith tradition.

My first choice is this song by Bob Dylan, since I had just read this article about the exploitation of nuns, who were historically required to serve the church males….

 

 

 

Shared Interests

For this week’s blog theme I want to match things I saw last week with some counterparts in art. Since the week was filled with interesting stuff it should be an enjoyable ride.

My best experience last week was seeing performance artist Penny Arcade in Longing lasts Longer and I cannot quite tell whether I laughed more or kept more tears back during her event last Friday. Mostly the show made me think, and experience awe at the physical energy and intellectual courage of a woman my age (mid to late 60s) who takes no hostages. A singular monologue, accompanied by intelligently chosen music and creative lighting offered the most incisive assessment of our current cultural dilemmas. She tackled an astonishing array of topics, without sacrificing depth for breadth, with a killer wit.

NYC friends, check out her next engagement at Lincoln Center on 2/15. Run, don’t walk!http://pennyarcade.tv ,

 

Much focused on gentrification of both, neighborhoods and ideas, pointing to the consequences of eradicating the visibility of alternatives, which were often provided in neighborhoods that are now mainstreamed for economic exploitation. Because of the gentrification theme I picked Vernon How Baileys’ sketches of NYC and some of my own photos as illustrations. (The performance, by the way, was presented by Boom Arts which once again made alternatives visible compared to our usual fare available in PDX. Check out what they offer next: http://www.boomarts.org)

 

Arcade is based in NYC and I lived not far from her geographically in the 70s and 80s – East vs West Village. Might as well have been two different universes in other ways, given my life at the New School.

But gentrification was only one of the topics that were tackled by the artist. They included the current political insanity, a brilliant analysis of the difference between nostalgia and longing, with the former being thoroughly discarded, a poignant comparison between the inclusiveness and tolerance of the queer community of old, and the absence of those characteristics we experience today. As an academic I, of course, related particularly to her description of the tyranny of fragility, the insane insistence of safe spaces and coddling of all kinds in our institutions of higher learning.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penny_Arcade_(performer)

 

Arcade, whose life could be succinctly described as the epitome of (voluntary as well as forced) risk-taking, mourned the absence thereof in today’s youth brainwashed to seek security and be the perfect consumers. Her criticism was counterbalanced, in the most poignant fashion, by sage advice to embrace the few periods of freedom you have in your life. For once, I heard advocacy for self acceptance rather than striving for external recognition, that wasn’t corny or clichee’d. Her rage against a society that ignores the dangers of AIDS, while conveniently filling the coffers of the Pharma industry that sells life-saving drugs sans mentioning the looming, debilitating side effects, was fueled by the loss of many of her friends and acquaintances to the scourge.

 

I left with a sense of sheer gratitude that people like Arcade exist and refuse to be silenced. I left with a sense that those of us who try to make our critical assessments of the world we live in known, are not alone, even if in a minor league…. and I left with a sense of wonder how age can be defied in the most dignified fashion by refusing to yield to the societally imposed rules of dignity. Friday night was a gift.

 

 

Here is more on the sketches by Baily, and below I add some photographs of the new skyline of NYC that he could not have envisioned in his wildest dreams.

 

The Artist Who Captured Early 20th Century NYC: 15 Sketches by Vernon Howe Bailey

Small Houses

This week is devoted to the process of making things by hand, and building houses fits the category. In fact, one of the most amazing aspect of the Laika exhibit that I described at the beginning of the week, was the details found in their constructed houses, inside and out.

In truth, though, today’s choice was also motivated by my wish to get the attached article into circulation. Much in it moved me and dealt with problems that we are all aware of but often feel helpless about.

Can Tiny Homes Solve America’s Homeless Problem?

Here is a quote from the article – a reminder of how privileged we all are.

In the planning stages of Emerald Village, there was a question about whether to include individual bathrooms in each home, which would have limited the number of units that could be built. While board members supported the move, the vote came in against them. The homeless individuals said they would rather have smaller units with communal bathrooms — because they wanted to provide housing for more people.

For photographs I thought I offer images of tools needed to make the stuff that fills the houses, furniture, floors, special beams etc. – when they are still made by hand.  I am lucky enough to know people who have the most amazing woodworking shops, in Philadelphia and in Germany. So you get a sampling of what caught my eyes.

And here is music for woodworkers – Joe Glazer did a lot of political songs, enjoy the lumberjacks!

 

 

 

Metal Work

I don’t even know what some of the words mean: “The early metalworker was familiar, for example, with hammering, embossing, chasing, inlaying, gilding, wiredrawing, and the application of chemicals.” But I do know that I like the finished products of all this activity, particularly when it is made out of wrought iron.

In fact I find myself chasing it with the camera wherever I can – although that is different from the one cited above…: “Chasing is accomplished with hammer and punches on the face of the metal. These punches are so shaped that they are capable of producing any effect—either in intaglio (incising beneath the surface of the metal) or in relief—that the metalworker may require. The design is traced on the surface, and the relief may be obtained by beating down the adjacent areas to form the background.”

I learned this and more from an overview in the Encyclopedia Brittanica:

Ironwork is fashioned either by forging or casting. Wrought iron is the type of ironwork that is forged on an anvil. There are no fabrication similarities to cast iron, which is poured in a molten state into prepared sand molds.

Wrought iron is fibrous in structure and light gray in colour. It can be hammered, twisted, or stretched when hot or cold. The more it is hammered, the more brittle and hard it becomes; but it can be brought back to its original state by annealing (heating and then cooling slowly). It will not shatter when dropped.

The individual components of a wrought-iron design are often plain or twisted rods, with or without chisel-mark incisions. They are frequently composed as a series of straight, parallel members or in combination with scrolls, or as a repeat design of some geometric shape such as the quatrefoil. Where two curved members are tangent, they are characteristically secured together by bands or collars, rather than by welding. Where two straight bars intersect, it is accredited craftsmanship to make the vertical bar pierce or thread the horizontal member. Grilles consisting of two series of parallel small-diameter rods, one series at right angles to the other, were sometimes interlaced or woven.

For details and history you can read this:https://www.britannica.com/topic/metalwork#ref600786

or a short version, if you don’t want to have your nose in the book until 2019)

The evolution of decorative ironwork

In Europe wrought iron was used in decoration of churches since the middle ages; later, Victorian houses displayed a lacework of wrought iron grids and garlands ending in scrolls, leaf-ends or fishtails, offering a paradox of solidity and daintiness. It was meant to send out a message of a significant social power – confident in its stronghold, parading expensive artwork with a view of its property behind.

In the US, New Orleans reigns supreme when it comes to the art form, but frequent fences can be seen in Charleston as well.

I like the art deco (Jugendstil) works I photographed in Paris and Bremen, which are more elegant, less ostentatious.

In any case, I imagine what it meant to be a blacksmith working with all this, inventing patterns, methods to make it more pliable, designing forms, if it was to be combined with casting, and then erecting those balconies at houses that he could probably not afford in a life time….

 

 

Kinderspiel

To close out the week on “any house but my own” musings, while sitting in the cold since the front door has been gone all day to be repaired…. I’m turning to playful buildings which surely brighten anyone’s day.

The first was shown this year in Holland, a small hotel that can be reconfigured into any kind of shape, depending on site specifics or customer needs. (Done, by the way, by the same firm that designed the eye-shaped library in China.)

MVRDV presents a hotel you can reconfigure at Dutch Design Week

And here is the same building……

My own photographs depict a passage in Cambridge, MA  that echoed the plasticky feel of the hotel – maybe future graffiti will appear on the walls in Eindhoven as well.

The second playful building can be found in the home town of LEGOs, Billund, Denmark.  It is a building of legos, for legos, with legos or any combination thereof, made to get you back into play mode…..

And the third building is closer to home, in Seattle, a distinctively wacky structure that has been renamed 5 times by the latest count. I guess currently it is the Museum for Pop Culture….. it used to be the Experience Music Project.

Images above are from the web.

If you are anywhere in the vicinity you should go on November 25 – they will be celebrating Jimmy Hendrix’ 75th birthday,  with rare documentary footage, oral histories, and films of some of his most memorable performances on their Sky Church and JBL theater screens. Several Hendrix artifacts will be on display, including the famous white Fender Stratocaster he played at Woodstock in 1969 and the beautiful kimono he wore at the Monterey Pop festival. (This per museum website…)

Here are my own takes on it, taken from the space needle.

 

Looks like difficult choices in deciding which ones of these to visit – I’ll probably end up in Holland, though, a quiet, colorful hotel room is an irresistible temptation this week.

 

 

Ex – Sacral Spaces

If past experience is a guide, praying to win the lottery will be of little help. It would come in handy, though, given how the house-repair costs are mounting. At least there are some amazing spaces where you could spend your time praying or doing the secular equivalent, if the spaces had been transformed.

Would you want to live in a house that used to be a church? Are there at least some hesitating blips in your brain before you commit to an answer? (Here are the mind boggling details…https://www.standard.co.uk/news/london/knightsbridge-church-turned-into-50m-home-with-gold-leaf-pool-room-juice-bar-and-cinema-8558159.html)

What about having the church become a bookstore (700-year-old Dominican Church, Maastricht, NL by Merkx+Girod)

or a childcare facility? Different outcome?

What if the former sacral space becomes a pub or restaurant? (The Church Bar, Dublin, Ireland)

17 Churches Creatively Converted Into Modern Homes

If you click the link above, you’ll have a virtual tour of some of the many transformations of chapels across the world. Given the scarcity of real estate it is no longer a theoretical question – people do use churches for other purposes.

Below is one of my favorites, including the arranging of kitchen gadgets behind former altar…. not sure if it makes me laugh or cry.

klaarchitectuur transforms historical belgian chapel into a collaborative design office

Yes, those are microwaves.

Photographs of buildings are from the web; photographs of the interior chapel from a recent visit in Tuscany. I stayed in a house at the foot of an abandoned castle. Ignoring the trespassing signs was worthwhile: amongst the ruined rooms was a small house chapel that had obviously served the family for daily ritual, saving them the significant schlepp into the nearest town. It was a forlorn place, my mood lifted, though, by the discovery of outside graffiti – some local kids must have found an outlet for their creative juices….

Showpieces showing Pieces

Hamburger Kunsthalle

Today’s imaginary travel will explore something close to my heart: museums. And it is just fine that it is happening in my imagination, since some of these structures have not yet been finished. Like the new Polytechnic Museum in Moscow, for example, which is being built at the same time that the old one is being renovated. Stay tuned for reports in 2018 – maybe I’ll make it to Russia after all.

Here are images of the old one: http://www.eventcomm.com/work/polytechnic-museum-moscow

And here is the plan for the new one:

The $180 million centre will be built at the Sparrow Hills district of the Russian capital, close to Soviet-era monuments including Moscow State University and the Luzkniki Stadium, with copper clad surfaces supposed to look like “cut by the wind.”  Pretty amazing, don’t you agree?

Here is a science museum I photographed in Paris, and, as an aside, a montage from the Man at War series, that was based on the structure.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cité_des_Sciences_et_de_l%27Industrie

Then there’s this new planned museum for modern art in Catalonia, located in a working open cast mine; it’s first exhibit is opening this month in a converted factory building; the Fundació Sorigué plans to construct a building holding research facilities and over 450 works of contemporary art, to be completed around 2020.

Lots of time to plan that trip to Catalonia, should it not have blown up in an independence war by then. And planning IS required: since the museum is on a working industrial site  everyone needs to make an appointment to be granted access. Somehow they all think that the draw for Double Bind – the first exhibit here and last work of Juan Muoz who died in his 40s while being heralded Spain’s most important sculptor, will make the long pilgrimage to this outpost happen.

 

The link below describes the work, which is only shown for the third time since 2001, and will be on site for the next 5 years. I have seen this humongous installation when it was first exhibited at the Tate Modern, it is pretty mind boggling. Unfortunately it was years before I picked up photography.  As I said, start planning!

http://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/art/features/catalonia-juan-mu-oz-double-bind-turbine-hall-planta-project-balaguer-a8029471.html

Here is another museum that is based in a factory, the Hamburg Museum der Arbeit. Until March 2018 it shows an exhibit commemorating Karl Marx’ Das Kapital, looking at the history and current relevancy of this important work.

My final choice leads me to China. The Red Brick Art Museum is a folk-based, non-profit art museum showcasing Chinese and world art, which was founded by collectors Yan Shijie and Cao Mei, and opened in 2014. I was taken by the simplicity of this building, compared to the ooh and ahh effects of the two previous examples, in terms of architecture (Russia) and site (Spain.)

I’m also partial to brick buildings, given where I grew up…..

 

Dong Yugan uses brick to form sculptural surfaces and playful structures at Red Brick Art Museum

I’ll pair it with the brick-faced Hamburger Kunsthalle – my go to, when I need cheer….